The perfect fall getaway in Chaudière-Appalaches

Already a fourth visit to the Chaudière-Appalaches region. Are we disappointed? Absolutely not, and even less so during the autumn season. With 50% of Quebec’s maple groves, the region is one of the best for a shot of colour. We’ve put together a 3-day outdoor itinerary just for you, between the river and the Appalachian mountains.

Day 1 - Parc des Appalaches

With 130 km of hiking trails, Parc des Appalaches is the perfect place to enjoy Quebec’s bountiful natural beauty. With such a vast area, it’s a good idea to plan your visit so you can find the right access route. One of the most popular hikes is the inevitable Sugar Loaf summit. Although we had already hiked it a few years ago, we couldn’t resist climbing it again. The trailhead winds through a maple grove, and at this time of year, it’s absolutely magical.

Quite accessible, the progress is steady and gives even the least experienced climbers a great view. The view from the summit is simply incredible, and certainly one of the most beautiful in the region. Just a few kilometres away, you can imagine Maine in the USA and Lac Talon right in front of you.

Sector (C) of Lac Talon is also well worth a visit. It’s a new part of the park that we’re exploring this time, and it’s a real treat! I particularly like the atmosphere created by the peat bogs, ecosystems that aren’t always well understood but are so necessary to the wilderness. The colours are in full transition. It’s the most beautiful time of the year in autumn, when all the colours come together in a visual patchwork that you just can’t get enough of. From here, there are a number of hikes that take you up to the mountain of Lac Talon (580 m) or the Chute du Ruisseau des Cèdres.

Where to sleep?

There are various options for sleeping in the heart of the Parc des Appalaches (depending on your preferences). From a simple camping spot or ready-to-camp, from a refuge to a chalet, the choice is yours. We opted for the Esker Nature chalet, which is very cosy and close to the Lac Talon sector. The chalet offers all the comforts you need for a cosy evening by the fire. They offer a private sauna and the icing on the cake: there’s free access to the boats to enjoy Lac Long.

Day 2 - Parc du Massif du Sud

Not yet satiated with the outdoors, we set off for another well-known regional park in the Chaudière-Appalaches: Parc du Massif du Sud. Renowned for its cycling, we decided to explore it once again on foot. Among the key trails are the Éoliennes (15 km), Mont Chocolat (8.2 km) and Abris-sous-Roche (4.3 km). We opted for a less-frequented but equally beautiful trail: the Crête des Givres. This beautiful loop of just over 11 km takes us through old-growth forest (with some very interesting interpretation panels along the way), past streams and rivers, and offers superb views at the summit.

Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t on our side that evening. But that didn’t stop us. We decided to have dinner at the Pub de la Contrée de Bellechasse (we’ve been there before, but it’s a safe bet) before heading back to our boreal tent. What we love about this kind of nature accommodation is the way you take possession of the place. The first thing we do is light the stove. Like a ritual, we start it up, then make sure it lasts all night. The tent is basic, but that’s all you really need. A mattress, a fire, cooking utensils and drinking water. All the comforts are there.

DAY 3 - Route des Navigateurs

I had this irresistible urge to see the river again. It is a destination in its own right, as much for its allure and history as for the majesty of its landscapes. It was an obvious choice to go along it, come rain or shine. Wind or shine. And the best way to do that is to take the Route des Navigateurs (Route 132), which crosses three regions, including the Chaudière-Appalaches. So we followed it from Lévis to Montmagny, stopping off at Saint-Michel-de-Bellechasse (our favourite) and Berthier-sur-Mer. All along the Route des Navigateurs, you can take in the maritime scenery, the river swelling and becoming an estuary. The coastline on the other side gradually recedes. You can see the Charlevoix mountains plunging into the steel blue of the St. Lawrence. A kiosk, a bay, seaweed-covered rocks, roads that seem to head straight for the river, as if ineluctably drawn. It’s the effect of the river. Everything converges towards it. Everything is a pretext for contemplation. And we love it! L’Herbarium floral café: in a cosy little chalet in Marie-Pier and Daniela’s garden. It’s the perfect place for a snack, nestled in a green setting, where the girls create some amazing combinations. – La Plage Motel: a motel like no other, with seaside charm where the rooms open out onto the river. The rooms are stylish, modern and bright. We just love it!