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Sjpj Winter 2025 Thomas Tessier 27

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Thomas Tessier

Slow tourism

Where time slows down: A weekend in Saint-Jean-Port-Joli

ALICE BLANCHARD

Our daily lives are punctuated by the hustle and bustle of the city. It’s a background noise that we come to love, even seek out. It’s a life we lead at full speed, so sometimes it’s necessary, for the space of a weekend, to take the time to live and breathe. Choose a destination that combines nature, fresh air and amenities to spend some time away from the hustle and bustle of the city.

 Enjoying the moment

That morning, the eagerness to leave was palpable. Everyone joined us and we set off for the old mill on the banks of the Trois-Saumons river in Saint-Jean-Port-Joli. The first few minutes are devoted to the euphoria of reuniting and catching up on each other’s lives. Then, little by little, as the scenery unfolds, the bodies relax and the space is freed up to enjoy the moment. The 132 guides us, the river opens up and the buildings give way to nature. An environment frozen in time, adorned with warm, colourful houses. Far from the big ski resorts and crowded hiking centres, the Chaudière-Appalaches region offers a soothing, authentic tranquillity.

 Making the chalet your own

On the recommendation of the locals, we stop off for dinner at “Argiles “, one of the region’s must-visit restaurants. Set in a friendly house with a bucolic view over the gardens, the menu offers us a very tempting proposition: home-cooked dishes made with good produce. The owners’ smiles and warm welcome made us feel right at home, and made the whole experience that much better. We even got to be the secret judges for a new ketchup recipe.

 

Once our hearts were full, we headed back to the chalet. It welcomed us with the sound of the last eddies refusing to be imprisoned by the winter ice. It would be our home for the next two days, as intimate as it was spacious, and we took a moment to make it our own, each at our own pace. Some decide to read, others watch nature evolve under the dance of the golden light that invades the large living room.

 Rediscovering our inner child

The need to breathe is felt, so we set off along the river, in pursuit of the last moments of this light that quietly wishes to disappear. The river has this hypnotic power that invites contemplation. Sitting on the railings of this old boat, we rediscover our childlike souls and imagine ourselves sailing off to discover the world. The cold wind encourages us to continue these conversations over a good beer from the Ras l’bock (link in french) microbrewery. Sitting in the warmth of a room overlooking the river, we quietly admire the flamboyant colours of the sunset.

 An unforgettable memory

The next morning, we wake up gently. The chalet enveloped us in its warmth, while outside the sun was still shy. Taking your time, not having to do anything and sharing breakfast to the rhythm of the coffee flowing, it feels like a perfect Sunday morning. The smell of toast and coffee fills the house, and the gentle atmosphere keeps the dreams of that peaceful night alive.

 

Later in the day, we set off to explore the surrounding area. Not far from the chalet, the Domaine de Gaspé offers a dozen very accessible walking trails. After a few minutes’ walk, the Petite Virée trail takes us to the top of a belvedere offering a breathtaking view of the river. On the way back, we came across a small clearing with a fire pit, which we were quick to light. It was a warm and magical break amidst the snow-covered trees. To complete this moment suspended in time, a singer came out of nowhere to accompany us with his most beautiful songs. An ephemeral and moving exchange that helped build an unforgettable memory.

 A final evening in good spirits

Back at the chalet, red in the cheeks and smiling, it’s by the fire that this beautiful day continues. Glasses clink, the fire crackles and laughter mingles. As night falls, it’s time to return to the comfort of this old mill. We’re all in good spirits, and with the music blasting, we’re singing our hearts out as we prepare the meal, not forgetting to dance. All seated around the table, we share a convivial moment and end this weekend in the simplest and most beautiful of ways, with a visit to the spa.

Photos: Thomas Tessier

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