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Chloé Ferrari

Outdoors

Itinerary for a weekend with puppy in the Parc des Appalaches

Chloé Ferrari

Surrounded by mountains, rivers and dense forests, the Parc des Appalaches is an undiscovered destination for summer and winter alike. Located about 1 hour 30 minutes from Quebec City, on the border with Maine, this vast territory of 120 km of trails will appeal to seasoned hikers and outdoor enthusiasts alike. It’s also one of the few 100% dog-friendly parks in Quebec, where dogs can accompany you everywhere: on the trails and in the accommodation.

Here’s our three-day itinerary, exploring two emblematic sectors of the park: Lac Talon and Mont Sugar Loaf. Three days of adventure, hiking and local discoveries to make the most of the colourful season and stretch into fall.

 Day 1 - Lac Talon sector

Hiking on Grande Coulée mountain

Our weekend begins in the Lac Talon sector, a true jewel of the park. We’ve chosen Grande Coulée Mountain, the highest point in the Parc des Appalaches, as our first destination.

Distance: 7 km round trip
Difference in altitude: 368 m
Duration: around 2 to 3 hours
The trailhead is located at Rang 5. The trail starts on an old snowmobile track before branching off onto trail 7, which climbs gently through the forest to the summit. The panoramic view, with fall colors carpeting the valleys, more than rewards the effort.

Overnight at the Martin-Pêcheur refuge

After the hike, we return to the Martin-Pêcheur refuge (link in french), nestling on the heights of the Petit lac des Vases. This rustic but comfortable refuge can accommodate up to 5 people and can be reached by car (300 m walk) when the snow has not yet fallen. In winter, it becomes accessible only on snowshoes (11 km), a great adventure for winter rovers.

The setting is absolutely peaceful: the lake, the tall pine trees and the crackling of the fire in the wood-burning stove. Nearby, two tent platforms allow you to sleep under the stars.

 

At the end of the day, we set off for a walk to the Barrage de Drave rest area, a short forest path that leads down to the Rivière Noire and offers beautiful late afternoon light. The next morning, before leaving the area, we stop off at the Devost waterfalls: a short walk through undergrowth carpeted with golden leaves, where the water flows peacefully between mossy rocks. A brief stop for a snack at Lac Talon rounds off this first morning in style.

 

Gourmet break in Saint-Paul-de-Montminy

On the way to our next sector, we stopped off in Saint-Paul-de-Montminy at Au Fourneau (link in french). It serves wood-fired pizzas to take away, as well as homemade bagels, accompanied by homemade jams and pickles, all made on the premises. A stop that combines human warmth and culinary comfort, ideal after a morning’s walking.

 Days 2 and 3 - Mount Sugar Loaf sector

Overnight at the refuge des Pins

After lunch, we head for Sainte-Lucie-de-Beauregard to reach the Mont Sugar Loaf sector, undoubtedly the most emblematic in the park. We spend our second night at the refuge des Pins, accessible by car in autumn. This spacious refuge can accommodate up to 8 people (four double beds) and boasts a friendly atmosphere and a large window overlooking the forest.

Discovering the area

As soon as we arrive, we set off to explore the surrounding area. The network of paths is so well signposted that it’s a natural invitation to take a walk. We take trail 10 as far as Pont du Brûlé, then complete our journey via the Halte du Rocher, a covered shelter offering spectacular views over the valleys. What we love here are the little shelters nestled throughout the forest where you can relax and take time to admire the scenery. You really get the feeling of being alone in the world!

Climbing Mount Sugar Loaf

The next day, we woke up at 6.30am to take advantage of the cool morning air. Tofu wasn’t very comfortable with a headlamp for a night climb (a dog is literally afraid of its own shadow!), so we set off at dawn once the sun was up.

We chose trail 10 to climb to the summit of Mont Sugar Loaf: a more direct ascent, but a little more technical at the end, with a few sections equipped with ropes. For those who prefer a more gradual ascent, trail 11 offers an ideal alternative.

Distance: 7.4 km round trip
Difference in altitude: 372 m
Duration: around 2 to 3 hours

 

Along the way, the trail passes through a magnificent maple grove that lights up the undergrowth in fall. At the summit, a small red shelter perched on a rocky promontory awaits you. The panoramic view of the surrounding mountains and rivers is breathtaking. Here we have lunch, alone, bathed in the golden light of the morning.

 

Ready-to-camp at the Mont Sugar Loaf campsite

Back at the hut for lunch, we read a bit before heading to the Mont Sugar Loaf campsite, where we spend our last night. After two days in the refuge, the call of the hot shower was irresistible!

Our fully-equipped, ready-to-camp tent could sleep up to 4 people. Julien and Tofu were quick to test out the comfort of the bed for a little nap, while I set off to explore the surrounding area on a trail run. From the campsite, a pretty path runs alongside the Halte du Pêcheur to the Pont du Méandre, perfect for a leisurely stroll before nightfall.

 Gourmet stop on the way home

The next morning, we relax over a campfire and homemade pancakes before heading home across the river. On the way, we stop off at Brasserie rurale Le Plongeon, in Saint-Cyrille-de-Lessard (about 30 minutes from Sainte-Lucie-de-Beauregard). This is an address not to be missed: spectacular views over the valley, creative local cuisine and a relaxed atmosphere. The menu changes with the seasons, showcasing local produce. A special mention goes to the teurgoule, a typically Norman dessert that melted Julien’s heart. A real favorite to round off our stay on a high note!

 Practical information

Parc des Appalaches in brief

The Parc des Appalaches, located in the Montmagny area, stretches right up to the American border. Nestled between valleys and mountains, it is about 1 hour 30 minutes from Quebec City and 4 hours from Montreal, making it an ideal location for a nature getaway in the Chaudière-Appalaches region.

Daily admission: $7 per adult
Special feature: as the park is located at altitude, the colorful season starts earlier. To admire the peak of fall, choose late September. We were there in mid-October, and it was quite late.

Where to eat

Au Fourneau
Wood-fired pizzas and bagels to take away. Also home-made products to take away: jams, marinades, hot sauces.

Le Plongeon rural brewery
A rural brewery set in a rural setting with a panoramic view. The ever-changing menu focuses on local produce and food and beer pairings. The atmosphere is friendly and unpretentious, and it’s one of the region’s gastronomic surprises, having opened its doors in spring 2025.

Where to stay

Mont Sugar Loaf and Randonneur campsites
Perfect for outdoor enthusiasts: pitches for tents, RVs or ready-to-camp tents already set up and equipped (mattresses, crockery, heating).

Parc des Appalaches shelters
A dozen huts spread throughout the park, all accessible on foot or by car depending on the season. Each hut is reserved exclusively, even if there are fewer of you than the maximum capacity – a real luxury if you want to enjoy the peace and quiet.

Micro-Chalets des Appalaches
For superior comfort, these modern chalets offer a cosy setting with all amenities, just a stone’s throw from the park. Perfect for a gentle end to your stay after several days’ hiking.

Photos: Chloé Ferrari

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