Catherine tells us about her weekend at Isle-aux-Grues with her husband

L’Isle-aux-Grues, a hidden treasure in the belly of the St. Lawrence, so close to home, yet so out of this world. It was under the wing of the Tourisme Chaudière-Appalaches team that my husband and I had the chance to savor the typically “Gruoise” island life, for one autumn weekend.

Departure by plane

The simple fact that a short plane flight with Air Montmagny was our means of transport to the island was enough to give us a vacation feeling. Overlooking the archipelago and spotting an impressive flock of snow geese within minutes of landing gave us the perfect foretaste of what the mainland had in store for us. Picturesque, rustic and comforting are the words that best sum up our stay… and our itinerary will reveal why!

Soaking up the atmosphere

On arrival, the Tourisme Chaudières-Appalaches team loaded us aboard a minivan for the rest of our adventure. A micro-roadtrip was enough to take the pulse of the island: breathtaking landscapes and a gentle, wild nature, dotted with cute ancestral houses inspiring slowness and a return to basics. What’s more, there are no gas stations on the island, nor are there any large shops. Small shops can be counted on the fingers of one hand, and their unpredictable opening hours add to the charm of the area.

The famous cheese fondue

Once our eyes were satisfied, it was time for our taste buds to enjoy a typically Gruyère experience: a local cheese fondue in the enchanting restaurant ofAuberge Pourvoirie de L’Isle-aux-Grues. The simple, comforting presentation of the meal intoxicated our already satisfied senses.

Breathtaking sunset

Although we travelled by van, the preferred means of local transport was by far the bicycle. It was with great gusto that we digested our hearty meal, pedaling away to continue discovering the island. A few hours of cycling took us to our accommodation for the night: the Maison du Grand Héron. In glamping mode, we settled into a pretty teepee to spend the night… but not before watching the last rays of daylight fade into the horizon.

L’Auberge Pourvoirie de L’Isle-aux-Grues, located at the tip of the island, offers breathtaking views, where time stands still as the river shimmers, the tall grasses rustle and the mountain backbone looms in the distance. At this dreamy spot, we gazed at the sunset while sipping a refreshing ATR-4 beer, available exclusively at this inn. It takes its name from the iconic historic ship docked on the outskirts of the site.

Sweet serene awakening

In the early hours of the morning, the same rays we had seen disappear the day before caressed our faces through the canopy of trees. If serenity had a face, it would be ours that morning. Coffee in hand and the smell of wood fire: that’s how our second day in this reclusive paradise began.

Forest walk on the island

After a continental breakfast at the inn, we ventured into the Jean-Paul-Riopelle Nature Reserve and the high marsh. This forest bath was a real balm for the soul. The walk led us to several unusual passages opening onto deserted beaches, the very treasures of the place.

Discuss island life with a local native

To round off our escapade, we returned to the Maison du Grand Héron, located opposite the ferry. Gilles, the former owner, was waiting for us with a platter of smoked sturgeon, one of the island’s great classics. Prepared daily when in season, it can be enjoyed at the small nearby market. Discussing the challenges of island life with a friendly and knowledgeable native certainly enhanced our stay.

As we waited for our return lift, we enjoyed the peace and quiet one last time before heading back to Montmagny. Patience is an essential virtue on the island, where apart from the plane, the daily ferry is the only way out. We strongly recommend exploring the island as a cyclist or pedestrian, to avoid the congestion of vehicles on the ferry, and the adventures that can ensue if it runs out of places, since no reservations are possible.

It goes without saying that this heritage gem deserves to be better known, and we highly recommend it for a peaceful getaway. We’ll definitely be back!

Photos : Stéphanie Allard