Our American Dream in Chaudière-Appalaches! The Canadian dream in a weekend

Just a stone’s throw (literally) from the chalet is the restaurant/accueil. It’s a place where you feel at home and where staff and customers meet in a friendly atmosphere.

Several types of breakfast are served, but we prefer the salty. So we chose the Musher’s Plate, a classic American breakfast: scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage and potatoes! All with a beautiful view of the lake and forest.

After breakfast, it was time for our first activity of the weekend: a horseback ride in the Appalachian forest (link in french). Although we’d been on horseback before, this was the first time we’d done it in winter in such a setting.

Before starting the ride, our guide Karen assigned us each a horse. Mine, Sony, is a handsome male with a white coat spotted with brown. A real beauty!

Karen first shows us how to brush them, and then it’s our turn to play! Contrary to what you might think, it’s not just a matter of untangling their beautiful manes, but also removing any ice that may have accumulated on their bodies. We also take the opportunity to bond with the animal. This closeness is so much fun.

After a short lesson on how to ride and steer a horse, we set off on the trail.

We seem to be the only ones in the forest, but we come across countless hare tracks in the snow. The further we go, the narrower the path becomes. Sometimes we had to bend over to avoid getting hit in the face by tree branches.

Although I’m relatively inexperienced when it comes to riding, I regret the lack of rhythm a little. Aware, however, that I don’t have the experience to launch myself into a gallop through the forest, I took the opportunity to contemplate the landscape around us, and that’s not bad! The ride is also punctuated by Karen’s comments, which tell us more about the place we’re in and its flora and fauna.

Almost halfway along the trail, we had to retrace our steps. Karen’s horse, which was at the head of our little group, didn’t want to continue, probably sensing ice under its feet. We appreciated the fact that Karen listened to her horse and didn’t force him to continue. We take the respect and well-being of animals to heart, and we wanted to make it clear that everything we saw on site proved that they are very well treated and receive the care they need.

When we got back from the ride, we were able to thank our respective horses by giving them little treats and lots of cuddles.

After lunch, we headed to the kennels for the ultimate dream: dog sledding! We got there well before the start of the activity to take the time to cuddle the dogs. I’m in danger of running out of superlatives for the part that follows, but it was so great…!

As well as being magnificent dogs, huskies have love to spare! All they want to do is have fun and be cuddled (well, and incidentally, eat too).

There are 85 dogs in the kennels (not including the younger ones) and although at first glance you might think they all look alike, distinctions are quickly made in terms of their colour, build, character and eyes. No two have the same eye colour, although blue dominates. A blue that is sometimes very close to white because it is so light! It’s a real festival of shades! Some seem to have the whole galaxy in their eyes. Others even have minnow eyes.

The husky is the closest breed of dog to the wolf, although the former loves the company of humans. They are affectionate with everyone! Yes, everyone! In other words, you wouldn’t take a husky as a guard dog… Energetic by nature, they have a vital need to run and exercise, which is the sine qua non if they are to be happy and fulfilled. It’s not unusual to hear them howl several times a day, which is simply their way of showing that they’re on their territory and alerting other animals to their presence.

Having grown up with a German shepherd and husky cross, I felt like I was going back into childhood, much to my delight. It’s amazing the effect these big balls of fur can have on us.

As with horses, a short lesson is in order. Fabien, our guide for this activity, takes the time to explain the basics of dog sledding and warns us of the risks. Because even if the activity may seem very tranquil, the musher has a certain responsibility. It is the musher who drives the sled and ensures the safety of both the passenger and the dogs.

We then took part in harnessing the dogs. This requires a lot of energy, as the dogs are overexcited at the idea of going out into the forest.

In concrete terms, this means jumping up and down and shouting for joy! It was really great to be able to take part. It makes the experience more authentic. It’s not just a case of passively waiting your turn before getting on the sled. It’s a whole process that we’re glad to have been able to take part in.

Finally it was time for the ride. We had the opportunity to do the “Tourbière/Frontière” circuit over a distance of 15 to 20 km. The snow-covered forest unfurled before our eyes. We walked through wide expanses of white but also through narrow corridors between the trees.

Wrapped up under a blanket, I let Alex drive and enjoy the scenery around us. We’re not going fast, but when you’re that close to the ground and skimming the trees, it can be pretty impressive.

Before we left the forest, Fabien warned us that we were going to cross the peat bog. What is a peat bog? It’s a wetland in which there is an accumulation of peat, a partially decomposed organic material. This creates a wet, acidic ecosystem that is very hostile to certain plants. Canada is home to more than a third of the world’s peat bogs. So we set off across this immense expanse with an incredible sense of freedom!

After crossing this almost-deserted area, we come to a most symbolic crossing: the Canada-US border. We’re travelling along an imaginary line more than 8,000 kilometers long, the longest land border in the world! Contrary to most people’s idea of a border, there are no security posts or police here: the border is unguarded.

The sky is grey but the temperatures are mild. This is pleasant for us, but the dogs prefer the harsh cold that is usually characteristic of the region. Their drive and motivation are faultless, but at the slightest pause, our huskies take the opportunity to throw themselves into the snow. A few kilometers before the return to the kennels, Fabien called on me again to reverse the roles. I was rather reluctant about the idea of driving the sled, but in the end I decided to give it a go. After all, I don’t know when such an opportunity will present itself again. I took the plunge and I have absolutely no regrets! Depending on where you sit on the sled, the experience is completely different. When you’re driving, the adrenalin and euphoria are even greater. I loved those sensations!

The return to the kennels went perfectly. We hurried off to congratulate our furry team, who loved this kind of stimulation, and as at the start of the activity, we also helped unhitch the dogs. After a final session of hugs and kisses, the activity ends with the puppies being met. A moment of pure tenderness! As well as making us very happy, this helps to socialise them from an early age. At 8 weeks old, they’re still small enough to be held. You don’t leave there without wanting to adopt one!

The evening ends in the restaurant where, to keep with the theme, we sip a musher at the counter (a homemade aperitif made with gin and cranberry juice). A table d’hôte menu is available for dinner. While Alexei chose the meat option, I opted for walleye (a fish better known as pike-perch in Europe), which was delicious! I don’t know if the tiredness of the day had anything to do with it, but we didn’t even have room for dessert. Pity, crème brûlée and chocolate cake were on the menu.

After a game of billiards, we head off to bed, making sure we have one last wood fire before going to sleep. What better way to end the day than in the warmth of a crackling fire! After a sound night’s sleep, a new day begins and a new activity awaits us. It’s off for a morning of snowmobiling, in the sunshine, with Max.

But today it’s a more sporting ride than the one we had the opportunity to do the week before. This time we weren’t on nice groomed trails, we were mainly off-piste!

We explored the area around the outfitter, the border and the peat bog, sometimes making our way where none exists. We followed Max’s advice and shifted our body weight to the left or right to make it easier to steer.

This outing gave us the opportunity to discover a little more of the forest around the outfitter and to return along the border. It was a good opportunity to stop for a few minutes and take a photo of one of the metal markers posted every mile, with “Canada” on one side and “United States” on the other.

Max takes the opportunity to tell us a few anecdotes about the border. We go back several years, to when the border was first created. At the time, some residents realised that their house was right in the middle of the border. A Quebecer in this situation could therefore be granted dual nationality and the house would have to have two deeds of ownership. At the time of the Vietnam War, a Quebecer in this situation was required to go and fight on behalf of the United States. If he refused, the consequences could be severe… Max also tells us about the Prohibition era, when smugglers tried to get round the laws by smuggling their goods from one country to another. Admiring beautiful landscapes is great, but finding out more about the history of the area is even better!

During our ride, we also discovered the Refuge Boréal, a handy little stopover for longer snowmobile expeditions.

Back at the outfitter, it’s already time to hand over the keys to our chalet and set off for Montreal. It’s the end of a weekend we’ll remember for a long time!

A weekend full of emotions and sensations, but also of great encounters. In fact, we couldn’t leave without going back to see our babies for one last cuddle!

Thanks to Tourisme Chaudière-Appalaches for making this Canadian dream come true, and also to Chalets Villégiature et Pourvoirie Daaquam and their staff for their warm welcome and kindness. We returned to Montreal with stars in our eyes!

If you too are interested in a weekend at Chalets Villégiature et Pourvoirie Daaquam, you should know that it’s open all year round, and that every season has its share of activities. In winter, as well as snowmobiling, dogsledding and horseback riding, you can go ice fishing, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. And in summer, quad biking, cycling and kayaking are just some of the activities on offer. Whatever the season, don’t forget your swimming costume to relax in the outdoor jacuzzi.

Photos: Our American Dream