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Parcdestroisberets Pa300171 Angehebertcorriveau

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Ange Hébert-Corriveau

Slow tourism

Ange and her family marvel at Saint-Jean-Port-Joli in November!

Saint-Jean-Port-Joli
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Local guide: Ange Hébert-Corriveau

Ange Hébert-Corriveau

It’s a mild, sunny Sunday in November, and as we sip our morning coffee, we’re thinking of a great place to go white goose-watching with the family. A quick search revealed Parc des Trois-Bérets in Saint-Jean-Port-Joli as a favourite place to watch the flock of migratory birds.

 A pleasant surprise at the Parc des Trois-Bérêts

A charming village at the eastern end of the Chaudière-Appalaches region, just a few kilometres from Bas Saint-Laurent, Saint-Jean-Port-Joli has everything it takes to make you feel like you’re on holiday all year round! As well as its magnificent natural setting on the banks of the river, the area boasts an enviable cultural vitality in many respects. Many artists have chosen to settle here over the years, no doubt because Saint-Jean-Port-Joli has everything to inspire.

As we drove along Route 132 to our destination, we doubted we’d see any geese (they’re not on order), as several long stretches of river were devoid of birds. But surprise! When we arrived at Parc des Trois-Bérets, our wish was granted. Great white waves rippled against the blue sky, coming to rest on the shore. Through the tall grass, we were able to enjoy this ephemeral spectacle to the sound of the cacophony of birds. The children thought that from a distance, the geese looked like hundreds of snowflakes gently twirling around. We followed the maritime interpretation trail lined with the wooden sculptures for which Saint-Jean-Port-Joli is famous. Here and there, benches, magnificently carved in honour of the founding families of the village, offer themselves for admiring the landscape. The attention to detail is touching, the beauty soothing, a vision well integrated into this park.

 A tasty lunch/dinner at Le Sibuet

The walk had whetted our appetites, and it was with the desire to have lunch for dinner (always a good idea) that we headed to Sibuet Boulangerie + Resto to share some tasty and generous brunch dishes! Part bakery, part restaurant, part mini-market, it’s a great place to stop and stock up for a picnic, a happy hour, or just to enjoy one of their creations. We went for the excellent Paris Brest, although the maple sugar cream tart – a perfect blend of French and Quebecois traditions – made us want to visit again. The atmosphere is convivial, the service friendly, and the food high quality. The solid wood displays, weathered floors, central staircase adorned with vintage family photos, and well-stocked bread and pastry counter all confirm the warm and welcoming character of the place.

 Le Vivoir makes way for craftsmen

To round off our little jaunt to Saint-Jean-Port-Joli, we went to discover Le Vivoir, a magnificent space bathed in light, whose mission is to showcase the skills of Quebec artists and craftspeople, by providing access to arts and crafts.

 

Le Vivoir is an authentic place of creation, collaboration and dissemination, where artists are invited to forge links with each other, with the community and with visitors.

 

The ground floor is divided into shared creative studios for different media, including glass, pottery, jewellery and sculpture. Permanent artists and artists in residence work here. The walls are glazed, so you can watch the artisans at work, and the curious children really appreciate it. Upstairs, you’ll find a boutique selling carefully selected pieces by Quebec designers, including ceramics, watercolours, jewellery, wood and textiles. Then, up the spiral staircase to the mezzanine, you’ll find the exhibition space, which is always renewed according to the artist featured. (when we visited, the works of Sébastien Lajoie, “Le dedans du dedans”). The rich cultural heritage of Saint-Jean-Port-Joli shines through in this stimulating and inspiring venue, a splendid den of collective creativity!

Photos: Ange Hébert-Corriveau

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